Potomac Rriver

On the borders of Virginia, West Virginia and Maryland overlooking the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac rivers is the historic village of Harpers Ferry. Harpers Ferry is a perfectly preserved mid-19th century river town that is managed by the U.S. Park Service and is a very unique place. It offers fantastic views of the Shenandoah and Potomac River gorges from its many promontories, including the famous "Jefferson Rocks". The town itself houses several restaurants, including outdoor dining, a well known outdoor outfitter, museums, living history displays and is even rumored to host the ghost of famous abolitionist John Brown. All this is the perfect compliment to my favorite reason for visiting Harpers Ferry, and that is its charm as a hiking and bicycling destination.

Harpers Ferry is lucky enough to sit astride two famous trails; the Appalachian Trail (AT) and the C&O Canal Towpath bicycle trail. The AT stretches from Katahdin Mountain in Maine south to Springer Mountain in Georgia. The C&O runs the length of the Potomac River from Georgetown in Washington, D.C. to Cumberland, Maryland; a distance of 184 miles. Both trails share a short run along the Potomac of about 3 miles just North of Harpers Ferry before separating again.

A weekend hiker wanting to enjoy the park to the fullest should get an early start. My favorite overnight hike is to start 8 miles (trail miles, that is) south of Harpers Ferry on the West Virginia / Virginia border where the Appalachian Trail crosses highway 9. There is a small parking area on the north side of the highway here and this serves as a good place to park a car overnight for the hike. If you are alone, you can double back and retrieve it the next day or, optimally, drop another car at the other end of the hike in Maryland at Crampton Gap right next to the historic and bucolic village of Burkitsville.

Your hike north from highway 9 will take you on a gentle drop through what once was once farmland, but is now forested upland. The highlight of this section of trail comes as you cross highway 340 and enter Loudon Heights. The forest in this area is as close to old growth as you're likely to see in the mid-atlantic region. You'll wind down the path toward the steep drop toward the Shenandoah crossing. The forest here takes on an almost otherworldly charm.

You should reach Harpers Ferry with plenty of time to spare to take in the museums and, perhaps, cool down with a frosty beverage of your choice. There is no camping in the park, but the Hilltop House Hotel offers very reasonable hiker rates. Hiking out of Harpers to the north you can choose to see the ruins on Maryland Heights and then return to your car to the South or move on to Crampton Gap. Crampton Gap was the site of a fierce battle during the prelude to Antietam during the Civil War. The park is well populated with items of historical interest including numerous markers describing the action of the battle and the very unique war correspondents memorial. On the approach you'll follow along the C&O Canal towpath to the base of South Mountain. Feel free to dip your feet in the cool Potomac or take along a pack-rod to do some fishing. When you reach the top of South Mountain above Weverton be sure to take in the view as it is one of the best in Maryland. North for another few hours and you're hike is done. Just grab that second vehicle and return to highway 9 for the swap-out. Congratulations on a great weekend!

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